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ECU Reflash

Yammyboy113 got one of the more exciting modifications to come out for the FZ-10 from 2WheelDynoworks. If you have been on the fence about getting this or are about to, Yammy's feedback and dyno run video 2WDW posted below will sell you on it. For more on-going feedback follow this discussion: ECU reflashed and my ride opinion.

Well I didn't expect my reflashed ECU to be in my mail box so soon from 2WheelDynoworks all ready. I mailed it out Monday late afternoon and got it back Saturday afternoon. I also installed the BMC raceing air filter at the same time. First I want to say if you haven't taken the gas tank off or the fake air box inlets ect, your in for a treat. Take your time with it cause you can break things, I didn't,lol. After I got the new BMC in I installed the reflashed ECU and I also installed the battery tender quick disconnect onto my battery. My stock battery just died on me and had to go to wally world for a new one. Even though the battery is probably still under warranty I needed my bike last week for a ride so my loss. When I started the bike and let it idle for a couple of minutes I had wacked open the throttle fast and the engine bogged then reved up. I thought that fuel inj engines don't do that? After the ride I tried the same fast opening of my throttle and it didn't bog ,just reved up? wonder what thats about?

Okay for the test ride today up blood mtn and the roads I usually travel on in my mountains. First thing I noticed is the quickness of the on off throttle responce in all three mods.Its worse! I mean when I let off the gas it feels like the engine shuts down. I thought from what ive been reading that all three mods smooth out from on - off throttle action? IM Not happy with that at all. Its less extream from std,A,B mode like stock, just more abrupt. Now im only running a slipon exhaust and a BMC air filter. Oh , the intake roar is alot louder and meaner than stock and has that nice cross plane intake roar, Im sure this beast is breathing better now. That BMC race filter is about half as thin as the stock filter material.

Now for the rest of the engine responce, If you thought your FZ10 pulled before, It will now pull like it has the advertized 160HP. Im not a wheelie guy, so I little by little wacked the throttle open in first and second and YEP she goes up quicker than before. When I did a few wide open runs I noticed my new red line when the rev limiter kicks in is now 12,500 RPM'S. My FZ10 definitly has more pulling power from about 4K's on up. I do notice some times there is a slight flat spot I never had before in standard mode in a low rpm high gear rollon I never had before. If I'm in A or B mode its very minute. I did a couple of 6th gear B mode rollons from 60-80mph and it definitly is quicker than stock was to me.

Gas mileage seems to be the same. So its not worse, but wouldn't be suprised if its slightly better if I lug it for a gas mileage run. That will be a later test.

I sat in my drive way when I got home and kept the FZ10 running to see how hot the eng temp guage got before the fan kicks in. It was rite on 210 deg when it came on and then the bike never went over 195 DEG. When stock my fan would't come on till something like 221 or so deg's.

Cruise control works just like before .

So im 80% happy with the tune but im going to give 2WheelDynoworks a call Tuesday and see If maybe my on off throttle responce and that slight dead spot in standard mode is being caused by the better breathing BMC raceing air filter? Or do I now need to get it dyno tuned to dial every thing in correctly? Ill get back with a answer.

Garage Door Opener Modification

Although not nearly exciting as the above, USArmyK9 generously outlined how you can install a garage door opener into your turn signal switch. The only cost to you is $30 and some basic mechanical skills. Follow his thread here for more information and feedback.

So I'm cheap and this is my alternative to a Flash2pass garage door opener. As some of you know, a Flass2pass can cost over a hundred bones. There are also some threads on the interwebs on how to install a garage door remote using the high beam, but that's a bit more involved and requires a relay, resistors, a flux capacitor. So instead, I decided to wire a universal garage door opener into my turn signal switch for the grand total of about 30 bucks and it doesn't require an electrical engineering degree to complete.

Here's a rundown on how to do this:

Things you'll need:

A garage door remote compatible with your opener.
A small soldering iron.
Some light gauge wire.
Hot glue gun.

Step 1 (Photo 1) - Find a location for your door opener. I placed mine behind the battery. You can use some adhesive velcro to fix it in place.

Step 2 - Cut wire to length. You'll need two wires of the same length. *Optional* You can use a vice and some safety wire pliers to twist your wires around each other to make them nice and neat.

Step 3 - Open your garage door remote and locate the circuit behind the button that opens your door. Solder one wire to one side of the circuit and one wire to the other. You'll see the button tines protruding through the back of the circuit board. Drill a small hole through the side of the remote's housing to run the wires through. *Side note* I wrapped my remote in electric tape to keep moisture out.

Step 4 (Photos 2,3,4) - Remove the fuel tank, airbox, and left side fuse covers (ram air tube). Route the wires around the left side of the throttle bodies, and between the frame and radiator. Secure the wires to the main loom to protect them. Then route the wires behind the fuse boxes, along the headlight support bracket and behind the 12v outlet. Secure the wires to the loom going to the left handlebar switch with enough slack to prevent any tension when turning the bars from stop to stop.

Step 5 - Locate the two screws on the bottom of the switch housing. Separate the switch upper and lower halves. Remove the two screws securing the turn signal switch in place.

Step 6 (Photo 6) - Create a flat tab on one wire with some solder and a pair of pliers.

Step 7 (Photo 5) - Insert the first wire (without the solder tab) between the copper tab and the spring on the signal switch. Hot glue the wire in place. Insert the tabbed wire into the open slot on the left side of the signal switch. Insert the wire far enough to make contact with the switch arm when fully depressed. Glue in place.

Step 8 (Photo 7) - Secure the signal switch in the housing and hot glue both wires together for added strength. Check your work and re-install all body parts.

Let me know if anyone needs clarification on any part of the install.


As part of this list of valuable modifications and accessories, Quickshifters are being talked about often enough, GYRT's Quickshifter being one of them. Already some members have them installed (installation video below) with feedback slowly rolling in. Whether you went with GYRT, another brand, have a question or feedback of your own, drop by the discussion here.

I installed my QS today after work. Funny thing though, my QS read out is already showing on my dash. I think it's been like that since the 2wheeldynoworks reflash. So I did the ten second activation any way but it didn't do any thing. Of course it started to rain out after I was done so I'll try it out tomorrow.
I ordered a OEM Yamaha one from 2wheelpros for 156.00 shipped. Is there any advantage to going with a different brand? I know some may have options down the road to add a downshift blip but I thought those were relatively pricey.
Question for all of you that have the quick shifter on your FZ-10 or a previous bike. Many bikes now come with the QS standard but yet I read articles of people that swear they damaged their transmission because of them. This doesn't make sense to me if many OEM options exist for this.

Many new bikes now come standard with them.

I have one on order, backordered until 7-14. I do as well have the Yamaha extended warranty on my FZ so I am wondering if any potential problem down the road would be in jeopardy if I install one even though the bike is definitely set up from the factory for one to be added. I'm probably just being paranoid but that's a result of being so old.
Well all I can say about my QS is,COOL. Headed to the gym this morning. Best part of the QS is shifting fast off the line. Lovin it.

Carbon Fiber Covers

If there's one way to step up the aesthetics of your FZ-10, following the lead of other members here by adding a Carbon Fiber swing arm cover, rear wheel hugger and a few others quoted below might be the way to go.

I finnaly installed the CF swing arm covers,rear wheel hugger, right side engine small cover and also the front fender. The C.F. front fender was slighty crooked and I had to put a 1/8 aluminum shim on one of the top side bolts just on one side. That did the trick.
I saw these on eBay and had to have them. Should be here on the 18th, I'll post more pictures of them after I install them and give everyone my input.
Here's a couple of pictures I just took, finally had a chance to see it in the sun!
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