How to: Shorten Exhaust Can - Yamaha FZ-10 Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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How to: Shorten Exhaust Can

Step #1

Remove the cannister from your bike using a 6mm Allen key for the support bracket and a 5mm Allen key for the exhaust flange ring.

Step #2, Pic. 1

Decide how long you want the cannister to be. I opted to make the beginning of the end cap meet with the end of the heat shield. Mark around the circumference and try to make the line as straight as possible. Note: The very end of the cap will sit about 1.5" past where you cut the exhaust body. Remove the heat shiled with a 4mm Allen key, and remove the rubber isolators.

Step # 3, Pic. 2

Drill out the center of the rivets securing the end cap on. I used a 1/4" bit. Do not force the cut, rivets are prone to spinning if the drill bit bites in it too much. Once the rivets are drilled and pushed in, the end cap will easily slide off.

Step #4, Pic. 3 and 4

Drill out the spot welds that secure the baffle into the body. I used a center punch, followed by a 13/64" and 7/16" bit. You do not need to drill completely through with the larger bit; you only need to eliminate the ares that are fused together.

I will continue this shortly, please allow me to finish the step-by-step instructions before posting.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Step #5, Pic. 5-6

Baffle cap and packing removal.

I opted to cut just behind the baffle cap to help ease peeling the body from the cap. Once the cap was free, I made a relief cut in the piece that was left on the baffle cap. This made peeling it off very easy. I used a portable band saw for all the cuts, but you could density do this with a hacksaw, grinder w/ cutting wheel.

Step #6

Cut the cannister body to your pre-determined length. Again, I used a portable band saw, but you could do this by any other means that would provide a relatively straight cut. remove the packing and save it for later. Note: This process is very forgiving if you are not perfectly straight. The end cap can cover some oopsie-whoopsies.

Step #7 Pic. 7-8

The baffle is welded on the inlet side, so it is not easily removed for modification. The baffle diameter is 1.75" and it flares out to 2.125" to mate with the baffle cap. The end of the baffle tube left in the cannister needs to be flared out to match the 2.125" diameter, so I used a pair of small channel locks to SLOWLY flare out the end. Go slowly or you will deform and/or crack the baffle tube. I went around the circumference numerous times, before I was close to the 2.125".

Step #8, Pic. 9-10

Reinstall the packing around the baffle(Messy, very messy). Clean up the cut you made on the cannister body and baffle cap. Remove all the burrs and sharp edges or this will make reinserting the baffle cap difficult. Insert the baffle cap and slowly tap it down into the cannister body. I used a piece of wood and a hammer for this . The end cap should be flush with the cannister body when done. Check the the baffle tube is flared enough that none of the packing is going to get pushed out. I had to flare mine a little bit more at this point.

Step #9, Pic. 11-12

Reinstall the end cap and drill new holes in the body for the new rivets you will install. Use the same four holes that the original rivets were in. I believe I used 3/16" aluminum rivets for this. Match your drill bit size to the rivet you are using. Once drilled, install the rivets and pop each one.

Step #10, Pic 13-14

Re-install the heat shield(don't forget the rubber isolators) and then re-install the cannister on your bike. Enjoy the added sound on the cheap!
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 07:03 PM
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Amazing skills and workmanship for something I personally would never do, but I can admire the work and skills this took.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-22-2017, 10:33 AM
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How much did this mod alter the sound? Definitely like the price point of this mod.

2017 Yamaha FZ10 Armor Gray Completely Stock
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-23-2017, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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The sound level is slightly louder than stock. As many have mentioned, the biggest sound reducers are the EXUP and the CAT. Both of those are still active on mine right now. I will most likely disable the EXUP though.


Last edited by Ludicrouspeeds; 05-23-2017 at 12:03 PM.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-23-2017, 03:43 PM
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Awesome. Thanks for the info. Can't wait to hear you thoughts after disabling the EXUP.

2017 Yamaha FZ10 Armor Gray Completely Stock
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-24-2017, 12:36 PM
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Thanks for the in depth DIY on how to shorten the exhaust but this is definitely out of my league of fab haha. Nonetheless, it looks pretty darn cool. Can't really grasp the sound too well unfortunately so I'll just have to take your word on it's a little louder than stock.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-24-2017, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, the sound level is hard to gauge. I can hear the exhaust note up to about 55MPH, where as before, it was muffled out at about 45MPH by wind noise. I can still hear my buddies Ninja 1000 behind me up to about 20MPH.

I am used to the Brocks exhaust I had on my R1. That would make your ears bleed though, even with the noise reducing baffle installed.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-04-2020, 06:42 PM
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Did u mate the end cap straight to the baffle inside or did u cut off the flared part of the baffle and have that in between the baffle and cap?
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